How to extend the wear of eyelash extensions and what factors can affect it?

Eyelash extensions are actually a huge commitment. They look good when done properly, but one wrong move could result in serious damage to the natural eyelashes, which we don’t want.

There is a question of the durability of eyelash extensions, which is very relevant and important for clients. If we as lash master stylists can give a guarantee for a certain time period, this emphasizes professionalism and allows the client to plan their next visit to the salon in advance. For the period of durability there are several factors which affect the wear of the eyelash extensions and it’s very difficult to decide which is the main factor.

Perhaps we can say that the client had poor aftercare, but I would like to assure you that it’s actually not the main reason even though it’s very important. There are a lot of factors to take in to consideration, glue, lash type, length, technique, incorrect applications, weather conditions, eyelash cycle, age, allergies, poor diet and of course experience of the eyelash master.

Adhesive

When choosing glue for your lash extensions, it’s really important to choose high quality products, as you do work around the most sensitive part of the human body. It’s very important to minimize the impact on the eyes. Safe quality glue is important, but no matter how safe the manufacture claims the glue is, it is the skill of the lash artist that ensures safety, quality and comfort. When eyelash masters choose the adhesive, they have to take several factors into consideration:

Drying speed, retention, density, plasticity, colour, fumes and bonding power. All this info you can usually request from the seller. The average shelf life of most glue is 5-6 months but once opened, glue should be used from 1-2 months. I advise to buy 5ml glue, to change more often but keep it fresh because of the interaction with the air and with use glue becomes thicker and changes its consistency, so do not use glue until the last drop. Usually lash extensions should last 2-7 weeks.

When you are extending eyelashes, the drying time of the glue needs to suit your working speed, the biggest mistake we make is when we take a quick drying glue (0,5 seconds) and simply do not keep up with it. As an example, while we’re aiming for the lash the other tweezer holds the extension dipped in glue.

The polymerization has started in that case when it contacts with natural eyelash, the extension is not stable, which we call poor retention. As soon as you start brushing, it will fall out and all the other lashes will never last as long as the manufacture promised. Always choose the glue that’s retention time will correspond with your working time as I have mentioned before. It is better to be sure that extended eyelashes will last up to 5 weeks rather than 7 weeks as it said on the instructions. So that’s why I would recommend you have at least 2 glues. Look after your glue once opened, store in a cool dry place, not in a fridge as the humidity in the fridge is high. Unless the manufacturer has said to store in a fridge. Shake well before opening, keep tightly closed in an upright position, always wipe the nozzle in order not to break the tightness of the twist. Always observe the temperature and humidity at your work place.

What eyelash extension diameters and length are you using?
How not to overload your natural lashes?

When it comes to the decision of which eyelash extension to apply, it can get confusing. Always think of your client’s natural lashes when choosing appropriate diameters and lengths. Choose the length of the extensions based on the length of the natural lashes. The maximum possible lengthening is 20%-30% of the length of the natural eyelashes. For the classic extension, I would recommend using 0.1, 0.12 and 0.15 diameter. If the single lashes are too long, it will affect the durability of the attachment and may cause stress to the natural lash. Now a days the most popular look in my opinion is Russian volume eyelashes, which are made with ultra-light eyelashes 0.05, 0.06, 0.07 and 0.1
Don’t be afraid of Volume lashes. The thinner lashes you use, the less stress to the natural lashes you cause. If you use extensions larger in diameter than the natural lash there is an attachment area between the extension and the natural lash causing poor retention and many unhappy clients.

Technique

A very important factor is your technique, nothing is more satisfying than a happy client. It is rewarding to help a woman look more beautiful. A goal of every lash artist, shall be clients who come back for refills.

Nuances

Place the extension on the natural lash making sure to get a solid bond with the first 2-3 mm of the extension. It is necessary to achieve the longest and most dense attachment point, in other words ‘the longer your attachment point is, the more likely that lash extensions will last longer.’ Depending upon the growth cycle of the natural lashes.

Eyelash cycle

Eyelashes aren’t just a pretty feature on your body, they have a very important function. Eyelashes are designed to prevent objects from getting into your eyes. The upper lid has about 50-140 lashes while the lower one has 70-80 lashes. Most lashes grow to be about 10 mm long. Natural eyelashes grow in and fall out in cycles, which occur every 60-90 days. Every hair on the human body follows a specific growth cycle, including our eyelashes. This is a three-phase growth cycle which you all know about (Anagen, Cartagen and Telogen) people lose 1-5 natural eyelashes each day depending on there individual growth cycle. Every lash artists nightmare is an eyelash shed season!

When you get a phone call from your client after a couple of days saying that she has lost a lot of lashes already, especially on the right eye. Which usually we are a much better at, she swears she’s not been sleeping on her face, she’s not a lash picker, she stayed away from humidity for 24 hrs. You know you cleansed lashes properly, you opened a new bottle of adhesive, shook for 2 mins, you have done everything by the book. “Yes, yes, yes it’s shed season ” I didn’t believe it at first either but after a few years of experience I realized it’s really a thing.
Usually there are autumn lash sheds and spring lash sheds. Usually the autumn lash sheds are heavier than spring, everyone is different when it comes to the amount of hair they will lose during this season. Do not panic, this is a very natural process. It is very frustrating for both us and clients, but not to worry it will pass in about six weeks time. If you notice dramatic hair shedding or thinning during this time, please advise your client to seek professional medical advice. When your lashing, give yourself extra time for fills, as maybe more lashes have gone. Make sure your clients are getting the full experience they pay for, adding in an extra 20 mins for each client shows your care about the quality of work.
Happy clients are loyal clients!!!

Experience of eyelash master

Now a days, most salons offer lash extension services. Demand is out there, big time. So, your job is to become a reputable stylist and make sure your knowledge is up to date. Your mission is to be highly successful. Make a serious decision before you invest in new training. Even if you have been lash stylist for last 10 years and you think you know it all, there’s always something new to take on board. At least once a year try to attend eyelash conferences, it keeps you motivated to become better. Always take time when you’re doing lashes, that correct application takes time. Lash application should take 2-3 1/2 Hours at least. Never allow your client to assume that you are in a rush. Any professional tasks make your job more interesting.

Be clear about after care

When your treatment is complete you must give your client aftercare instructions. Make sure they are clear about it. Hygiene comes first! Keep the eye area clean. This is very important. Some ladies love their lashes so much that they don’t want to get them wet at all. Avoiding proper hygiene can result in an eye infection. Do not use make up removers which contains any type of oil or petroleum. The golden rule for wearing eyelash extensions is, the less you touch them the longer they will last! However, it is important to keep the eye area clean. Also remember one more important factor, people with oily skin and people who wear contact lenses lashes, won’t last as long. If you give your client a disposable eyelash brush to take home, make sure they know how to use it correctly. After your client has taken home a good after care system, offer an oil free chemical especially formulated for eyelash extensions which does not affect the bond life of adhesive. It can be an amazing retail product to compliment your treatment, it will give you assurance that your clients are using the right product to take care of their gorgeous new lashes.

 

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